New York Without Luggage, Reservations or Fresh Socks

New York is an impossible place - an overbuilt islandtalked out of a local fish - cod - and talked into Chilean
with a nasty climate, horrendous traffic and . . .magic.sea bass, which is unavoidable in L.A. restaurants The
What's not to love? Our day trip to Manhattan waswaiter had obviously spent his childhood pushing cod
typical John and Laura - last minute. It was postaround his plate and pretending he'd finished it. John's
Christmas and very cold after a snowstorm. The skyravioli was phenomenal and led to him to keep
was bright blue and the wind was piercing as weperfecting his pasta and ravioli from scratch.
stood at the bus stop in John's New JerseyWe rolled to the Grand with no bags to check in - I
hometown - Kearny. I, weak and pathetic after yearsdidn't even have a purse. I don't lug purses around as
of mild L.A. weather, huddled in a nearby store whilethey are a drag to carry and a magnet for muggers.
John, the native, stood in the cold without gloves orWe stopped at a bodega and bought a toothbrush,
scarf. He deigned to wear a hat, at least. I had in mytoothpaste and contact lens solution for me - $9, not a
pocket $40, an American Express card and a lipstick.bargain but who cared? We then hit the hotel and
Oh yes, and a one use camera. Little did I know wenoted the hopping scene at the bar - and walked right
wouldn't be back in Kearny for almost two days.past it. We fell into bed and slept blissfully - though by
We took the excellent DeCamp Buslines bus over,morning's light we discovered the room was tiny. Didn't
warm and comfy. I watched the gritty landscape passthis used to be an old SRO hotel? They certainly didn't
by, crumbling and winter-cracked overpasses, plenty ofincrease the room size when it was converted to a
graffiti, salt-beaten cars. This is not a romantic way toprofit center. John pointed out the view from our
get to NYC but a warm one. My dad the Scottishwindow and what it was missing - the World Trade
immigrant actually arrived via ocean liner and his firstCenter. Solemn moment.
sight of America was of the Statue of Liberty. HeWe got a late check out and debated what to do.
even passed through immigration at Ellis Island. NowWell, eating was going to happen, but first some great
that's an arrival in New York. We got off at the grungywalking and a truly wonderful cup of coffee at a place
Port Authority where a taste of the winter wind hadwe ducked into. Don't ask me the name. New York is
even John admitting he needed a scarf. He bought ateeming with picturesque side streets with tiny cafes,
post Christmas bargain for $6. One thing you can doshops, galleries and what not. We ended up at
and want to do in New York is walk and we wereVeselka around 2 p.m. This is a classic Eastern
soon warm enough as we marched out into the lateEuropean restaurant at 10th and 2nd Avenue. I got
morning and headed to the Metropolitan Museum. Thestuffed cabbage and borscht and even went for
place was thronged with families off school and work,dessert. We read the NY Times at our window table
plenty of art students and a well-organized staff. I wasand watched the world go by. But the break was
finally warm and very reluctant to get into the longover. One of the people we were to meet at last
coat check line and surrender my security blanket, butreturned a cell call. Okay, I admit it, we turned the
the line moved fast and we soon had our coat tagsphone off for hours so as to be unreachable. I mean,
and dove into the crowds. John knows his modern artahem, conserve the battery. We arranged to meet
and we visited a lot of his favorites after an eleganthim in midtown and walked all the way (40 blocks or
snack in the café. The American Express cardso, but John the native assured me they were the
got its first of many uses there. We then traded offshort blocks, not the crosstown blocks). The walk took
putting up with exhibits for each other. I examined theus across the strange diagonal which Broadway
vintage baseball card collection for him and he joinedbecomes and I started to get a feel for the geography
me for the costume exhibit, focusing on the Duke andof the city, something that's hard to do in a cab, bus or
Duchess of Windsor's elaborate clothing. God thosecar. We met my friend for drinks at another "guys'
two could really dress - but then again maybe thatbar" with an after work crowd culled from Wall Street.
was all they really had to do. . .John had a White Russian that seemed to be made
A couple of hours in a museum was plenty for us sowith maple syrup. More of a beer and scotch place I
out into the air we went. It was warmer at last. I hadn'tguess.
been to New York since a lone high school trip manyThen it was time for a hellish run to the Port Authority,
years before, so I had to see some of what I hadboth needing to find a bathroom and desperate to
seen before just to compare notes with myself.catch the bus in time to make it back to Jersey and a
Central Park was easy since it borders on the Met.long-arranged night with the family at the
Yep, still a big beautiful park. In winter kids were slidingScots-American social club. Back in Jersey, Manhattan
down the modest hills and dogs romped - well theywas a vision across the water again. John's brother-in-
were dogs whose owners lived on the park solaw Joey kept the wine and beer going as it was his
maybe they sashayed. The Plaza Hotel was also onnight to tend bar, but after the night before we kept it
the list of places to revisit. The lobby was as lavish as Ilight. I persuaded my native hosts to go back to
remembered but it seemed smaller. Do all things shrinkManhattan the next day, this time to hit the Natural
year by year? Or are they so big in your memory theHistory Museum. We drove over with John's Pop at
present can never match the past?the wheel of his car, nice enough to drive to a city he
New York is one of those places where the presenthates. He used to have a sidewalk stand in the Village,
does exceed the past, because it always haswhere John sold his original paintings as well. He
something new to show you. Last time I had donereminisced about those days, and the really old days,
three theater shows, had a carriage ride throughwhen he met John's mom at a Catholic dance in 1949
Central Park, visited the Statue of Liberty and Empireand by age 18 was married.
State Building, watched the St. Patrick's Day parade, allWe tried for close to 25 minutes to find parking near
in four days. So this time I could relax, right? Well whythe museum and actually succeeded. Pop and I were
relax in New York? We had cellphone numbers foron the lookout for a spot while John napped, still
our respective friends and were secretly gratefulcatching up on sleep after another night back on the
when we couldn't reach any of them. The night wouldlumpy mattress. He woke up just in time to find a spot
be ours - the plan was to catch a late bus, train orfor us, claiming we needed his expertise. Okay, but
something back before they all stopped running. Ratherwho drove up and down ten square blocks until we
than the subway, we used our all day transit passesfound an undiscovered street? Now I was feeling the
and took the aboveground buses, which may notreal New York. Scour the place for parking or pay the
seem hip but run all the time and stop at convenientastounding rate of $24 for 2 hours. Pleased with our
places. Cabs are not the necessity you might thinkfind, we trudged to the museum where a huge line
they are. John wanted to show me the Village, one ofmeant we could not possibly get in. What to do?
the places where he had lived during his 6 years in theHow about a trip to Hoboken? But first I felt I had to
city. Dusk came quick and our first stop was ansee Ground Zero. It was a crisp December Saturday
Internet café to check email. That's when theas we edged through typically hellish traffic down to
idea to stay over started brewing. Maybe we couldthe tip of Manhattan. Everyone had warned me that it
get some kind of online deal for a last minute hotel forwas just a big hole in the ground surrounded by a
that night. We mulled it over at venerable McSorley's, achain link fence. We couldn't park or get much closer
beer-only bar where women were not allowed untilbut circled a little. I could see the fence was decorated
the '80's. The waiter remembered John and found us- and perhaps still is - with tattered mementoes of the
seats in the raucous holiday crowd. We somehowdead. Pictures, ribbons, poems, posters. A faded
ended up at a table of college friends reuniting afterpicture of a young woman stays in my mind. She is
stints in Arizona - or were they all headed to Arizona?smiling in a stiff pose; maybe it's some kind of studio
The beers were flowing and the facts got fuzzy.shot. I glimpsed hawkers selling shirts, flags and buttons
They took our picture - recording us for posterity in the- the post Christmas vacation crowd had a festive
kind of winter get-up we'd never be wearing infeel but I didn't get close enough to feel the other vibe I
California. McSorley's serves two kinds of beer - lightknew was there. The sad one. And the angry one.
and dark, both their own brews. Snacks consist ofSo it was back through the Lincoln Tunnel to Jersey.
cheese, onions and hot mustard. And, oh yeah youWe toured Hoboken, where both John's parents were
have to order beers in sets of two, no splitting.born. We drove past Sinatra's birthplace, very well
Sawdust on the floor and dark wood complete themarked and easy to find within the two square miles
picture. After the beers it seemed to make sense towhich is Hoboken. We then prepared to double or
stay over and spend a great New York night withoutmaybe even triple park, per tradition, outside Biggie's
worrying about catching a bus back to New Jersey.Clams. It was a 1940's social club/illegal gambling joint
We booked the Soho Grand for an okay rate andthat served food so good it had become mostly a
knew one thing for sure: at last we would be sleepingrestaurant by the '50's. I had raw clams on the half
on a smooth surface after four sleepless nights on ashell and was very content. East coast seafood is
sheet stretched over lumpy rocks - otherwise knowncold water seafood, somehow brinier and crisper than
as the ancient family guest room mattress.the Gulf seafood where I grew up. Maybe there is an
Before the Grand was dinner - we decided to walkargument for cold climates after all.
around and look for a likely place. John has no troubleWe were soon back at Pop's, greeted by his cat
asking local-looking people where they like to eat andDuke, standoffish as ever. The guys had managed to
they were happy to help. What's this rumor aboutfind a New York Times for me after three tries at
bitter New Yorkers? Of course I was introduced aslocal Kearny newsstands. They watched football and I
the visitor from L.A. so they had all the more reason toread the paper. We drank hot tea and ate cake and it
be sure I got something besides sprouts, tofu andwas hard to imagine that the high rises of New York
sunflower seeds. We stopped in for raw oysters andwere so close to this cozy middle class street. There
champagne at a small but packed restaurant. It got towas more eating that night. Italian food, of course.
be around 9 and we figured we had a shot at gettingHuge portions for your average "gavone" - Italian for
into Balthazar without a reservation. Sure enough, wewhat I had become on the trip -someone who eats
only had to wait about 45 minutes at the bar, pacingeverything in sight. But, New York in the winter is made
ourselves on the drinking by this point, believe you me.for eating...when in Rome.
Dinner was quite wonderful, though I let myself get