Vieja Lira Trattoria & Pizzeria - Oaxaca Restaurant Review

Thankfully the recent expansion from 24 to 40 seatsappetizer to arrive, and we knew there were more
hasn't detracted from the intimacy and quaintness ofentradas to follow, the four diners in our party were
this downtown Italian restaurant and pizzeria. It still hasdrawn to devour it all, without even a single, obligatory
classy yet welcoming décor of deep cranberry"no, you take the last piece."
and white walls, simple pine tables and cushionedOur appetizers were rounded out with a bowl of ten
chairs stained dark to enhance a bistro-like feeling, andor so medium-sized garlic shrimp, skewered, and an
not to be overshadowed, floor-length draperiesorder of bruschetta of chicken liver paté, dare I
well-matched to the magenta / wine tones. The softsay good enough to remind me of my grandmothers'
sound of jazz heard from the street is alone enoughrecipe from The Old Country. Watch out asiento,
to make you want to take a peak in, and then you'reschmaltz is making inroads into Oaxaca.
hooked.My wife's seafood bouillabaisse consisted of a medley
You're warmly welcomed by Italian owner Simone,of seafood and fish, juices appropriately spiced with a
who is almost always on hand. His presence remains,blend of fresh local herbs including your standard Italian
yet more in the nature of consultant, available to makeselections, served in an oversized bowl. I continued
suggestions, innately knowing when his attention iswith the crustacean theme, indulging in a hefty serving
needed, and when not. He advises regarding selectionsof fettuccini with seafood including squid, octopus,
from the printed menu, or large blackboard. We'veshrimp, scallop and local langostina in their shell. One of
never been disappointed with his wineour guests ordered seared tuna over a bed of mixed
recommendations, each having been carefully chosenexotic greens. She'd requested "rare, much less than
by Simone so as to ensure appropriate pairing of foodmedium," I piped in "almost still swimming," yet the plate
with wine, as well as affordability forarrived disappointingly overcooked, bordering on well.
middle-of-the-road patrons.Without question or discussion the dish was removed,
The primary culinary reason for visiting Vieja Lira is itsand in short order another serving, properly grilled,
pizzas. However, the fish, seafood, pastas and zuppasarrived with appropriate apology. The final
run a very close second. And even if the temptation toentrée was one of the daily specials, rabbit
order a traditional plato fuerte is too great to resist, andwith choice of penne or linguini, in a tangy tomato
you're inclined to pass on the pizza, suggest to otherssauce.
in your party that pizza as one of the appetizers mightTwo bottles of Italian merlot having been retired, the
satisfy the curiosity if not secret yearning of all.restaurant by now almost empty, we were
Drinks arrive almost as readily as the crusty, soft yetnevertheless still inclined to continue with just a bit
dense bread, hand-cut to be drizzled with the herbmore catching up with good friends. A couple of
infused olive oil or perhaps some paste-like salsa debrandies and herbal teas, a tiramisu, and a coconut ice
chile de arbol.cream served in its half shell, most agreeably put the
The pizza is one generous size, with crust as thin asfinishing touches on an evening of overall contentment.
I've ever chomped, surely worthy of winning an award.Vieja Lira
It borders on the thickness of a tortilla or perhapsTrattoria & Pizzeria
tlayuda. For this cena our eight-slicer had cheese,Pino Suárez 100
tomato and the usual herbs and spices, each quarterCentro, Oaxaca
with a healthy topping of one of artichoke, black olive,Hours: 1 - 11 p.m.
mushroom and pepperoni. While it was the first