Notes From the Couch - The Crazy Chef Brings Us a Taste of Home

Since the time I was a small child, I have always lovedthen washed it down with a perfectly smooth sip of
Italian food. My fondest memories involve walking toMontepulciano. If bread and wine could succeed in
the local pizza shop with my grandfather where mouthrousing my horribly deprived taste buds, then perhaps
watering aromas sent my stomach into a fit of hungrythere is hope after all, I thought. I slowly perused the
growls. I could barely wait to sink my teeth into themenu, pausing at the Spaghetti alla Carbonara and
greasy slice of hot baked dough with thick layers ofVitello alla Marsala. We ordered both, in addition to the
creamy mozzarella cheese dripping and bubbling overPollo alla Parmigiana for my husband's more
sweet tangy sauce.conventional taste buds.
In my early twenties I was spoiled by Boston's NorthBy the time I took my second bite of the Carbonara I
End where Hanover Street and the surroundingknew I would return to this place, and when the Veal
neighborhoods overflowed with authentic ItalianMarsala literally melted in my mouth, I wanted to run
restaurants. The tantalizing aroma of fresh bakedinto the kitchen and hug both chefs. We invited Carlos
breads, pizza and pastries floated around everyback to our table to express our appreciation, then bid
corner. In later years I relocated to New York City andfarewell with two generous scoops of homemade
became a pasta addict. I saved my hard earnedStrawberry and Raspberry Gelato accompanied by
pennies and took up running in Central Park so I couldtwo festive shots of Limoncello. I could not wait to
afford to indulge in the fine eateries of Manhattan'sreturn, and so I did, this time in search of the inside
Upper East Side, where heaping plates of heartystory.
Bolognese, spicy Puttanesca and rich Penne allaHow did two guys from Naples and one man from
Vodka topped with fresh grated parmesan weredowntown Boston cross paths in Charleston and
accompanied by thick loaves of crusty warm breadarrive at the same point in time to create a joint vision?
and washed down with velvety mouthfuls of PinotOn a recent Tuesday morning I found myself sitting
Noir.across from Jo Meli, financier and silent partner behind
When I moved to Charleston nine years ago, my wellthe scenes, who left a long career as a nightclub
honed taste buds entered into a shocking state ofowner to open Cuoco Pazzo. Jo's wife Dawn
withdrawal. I missed my late night walks down Secondmanages the books and the inventory, while Caro and
Avenue munching on a thin slice of greasy pizza, as IDavide bring us a taste of their homeland through
headed for my tiny studio where I could spot at leastfresh ingredients, intense passion and a focus on
five Italian restaurants from my bedroom window. Nosimplicity.
longer could I step outside my front door on a warmThey grow their own basil at the restaurant, and the
spring evening, grab a table on the street and feast onveal is so tender, it can be cut with a spoon. By
crusty warm bread soaked in olive oil, ridiculouslymidmorning Carlo and Davide were already hard at
tender Veal Marsala, savory bowls of Rigatoniwork in the kitchen. The enormous vat of tomato ragu
Amatriciana, rich, creamy layers of homemade tiramisusimmering on the burner smelled so delicious I wanted
and hot frothy cappuccino sprinkled with cocoa. Ito dive head first into the pot. Despite my pleading I
nearly gave up hope, until two guys from Naples, Carlowas unsuccessful in learning the recipe. Davide told me
Colella and Davide Davino, opened Cuoco Pazzo (a.k.a.there is no magic to a good sauce, aside from a nice
Crazy Chef) on Johnnie Dodds Blvd. in Mount Pleasant.slow simmer and fresh wholesome ingredients.
When my mother first told me that she found anLunch was fast approaching and I could feel my
authentic family style Italian restaurant right here instomach beginning to rumble. At that moment Davide
Mount Pleasant, I was highly skeptical. Even so, I couldjumped up and asked what I might like for lunch. I
hardly resist checking the place out.suggested it be the chef's choice, and shortly
My husband and I dined at Cuoco Pazzo on a recentthereafter Davide returned from the kitchen with
Saturday evening. As we entered the place and Isteaming plates of thinly sliced, tender chicken breast in
noticed several groups of satisfied looking customersa lemon wine sauce with fresh artichokes. The five us
lingering over coffee and dessert, I began to feel mildly(Davide, Carlos, Jo, Dawn and myself) enjoyed a
encouraged. With two waitresses managing a smallcasual midday meal filled with laughter and
handful of tables, the service was prompt, friendly andcamaraderie as I continued my quest for the inside
attentive. I took a bite of warm crusty Italian breadstory.
soaked in herb infused olive oil and grated parmesan,