La Catrina De Alcala - Oaxaca Restaurant Review

La Catrina de Alcala ranks amongst the city's finestdishes in the continental genre are often presented
restaurants, rather unusual since most otherwith local flare.
restaurants within two blocks of the Oaxaca's zocaloParticularly noteworthy as starters are the poblano
manage to get by with cafeteria-style atmosphere,pepper soup with mushrooms, squash blossom and
mariachis and marimbas, and mediocre food. Butbacon, and hierba santa leaves stuffed with Oaxacan
owner/artist Rolando Rojas took the plunge, and thestring and goat cheeses in a green tomato and mecco
gamble has paid off: both quality Oaxacan, and uniquechili sauce. The salads range from the traditional to the
continental fare in a tasteful courtyard setting, in theunique (jícama, sunflower seeds, toasted
heart of the Centro Historico.almonds, wheat quenelle, fried hibiscus flowers and
The establishment is actually three businessesfresh cheese with hibiscus dressing). The staff is
combined in a two-story piece of prime real estate,extremely accommodating in terms of sensitivity to
along Oaxaca's famed pedestrian walkway,those with dietary restrictions or a purist palate. For
Macedonia Alcalá: an upper level boutique styleexample, at our most recent evening out, chef Juan
hotel; an art gallery featuring the works of Rojas andCarlos was happy to comply with my wife's request
several other respected local artists; and the adjoiningfor a simple small green salad.
eatery, managed by chef Juan Carlos GuzmánThe seared tuna with mango and Habanero sauce,
Toledo.alongside white beans in coconut milk is prepared to
The experience begins with an attractive youngperfection, with the flavor of each ingredient easily
woman clad in regional dress, smiling and welcoming atdiscernible. The sliced duck and fresh fig is served on
the restaurant's entrance way, ushering you to youra bed of julienne of zucchini "spaghetti," smothered
table. The focal point is a large, cantera stone fountain.with a dark purée of honey-fig. And beef
Otherwise the decor is minimalist, white walls adornedlovers are able to experiment with the non-traditional,
with sparsely placed art and a series of gilt stars. Yetbe it a rib eye served with guacamole and creamy
the ambiance somehow exudes comfort and warmth,garlic-stuffed chili, or go for something more Oaxacan,
perhaps facilitated by the lone strumming troubadour,steak marinated with mezcal, pineapple and apple,
half hidden behind a strategically placed cluster ofserved with garlic puree stuffed chilito.
plants.All of the after-dinner non-alcoholic hot beverages are
Waiters are eager to show off their Englishavailable high-test, or decaffeinated, so extend your
proficiency, whether needed or not, as bowls of salsa,evening without concern, perhaps concluding with a
one smoky tomato-based, and the other with a hint ofmartini glass brimming with a selection of three tropical
shrimp are placed alongside totopos (crispy, toastedfruit sorbets.
corn-flour crackers).Also noteworthy: La Catrina has developed a
The restaurant prides itself in its use of seasonal,dedicated breakfast and lunch crowd, often comprised
locally produced ingredients, and boasts that when youof predominantly local residents. Coffee or tea is
patronize La Catrina you're helping local economies.suggested upon arrival, with warm, freshly baked
Vegetarian dishes, "slow food," and plates from thebreads and an assortment of sweet rolls for the
Isthmus region of the state are noted. However,asking. Dishes include an assortment of eggs and
occasionally the odd import sneaks in as a special,omelets, traditional Oaxacan breakfast fare such as
such as kobe beef.enchiladas, tamales, chilaquiles and typical Oaxacan
The menu otherwise covers all the bases: soups,grilled meats with garnishes, both unique and traditional
salads and appetizers; meat, poultry and pasta; fishsalads, and sandwiches featuring spinach, goat cheese,
and seafood, and regional specialties such as apecan, apple, basil, mushroom and squash blossom.
selection of three Oaxacan moles. But even those