| Last week I was invited to review Topaz, a favorite | | | | presentation was flawless. Next up was Grilled |
| restaurant haunt of Turkish businessmen, looking to | | | | Octopus with lentil puree and truffle oil; I seem to |
| entertain foreign associates; the elegant paired down | | | | remember some caramelized onions thrown into the |
| interior design and the cleverly constructed menu that | | | | mix as well; and Turkish Puf Borek stuffed with mince |
| caters both to the more conservative Turkish | | | | meat. The grilled Octopus was very tender and |
| customer with up to date versions of Ottoman | | | | married well with all of the above, particularly the |
| classics and his/her more bold international counterpart | | | | sweet onions. The Puf Borek was authentic but a little |
| with adventurous, playful and very modern creations | | | | light in the mince department; the mince was so good I |
| built around the very best Mediterranean ingredients; | | | | could have done with a bit more; other than that no |
| everything at Topaz is beautifully geared towards | | | | complaints. The sauteed Goose live with mango and |
| providing flexible fine dining for the perfect business | | | | caramelized onion and the Stuffed vine leaves with |
| lunch. | | | | cherry that followed were both very appealing dishes |
| When I first visited Istanbul seven years ago; long | | | | that couldn't be more different personality wise; The |
| before I made the move from London four years ago, | | | | goose liver was very modern and certainly not |
| a Turkish friend showed me several bars and | | | | traditionally Mediterranean; complete with the bright |
| restaurants that gave me an instant impression of | | | | vibrant flavor of the mango and the French style |
| Istanbul as an interesting stylish metropolis; the one | | | | presentation this is a direct contrast to the very |
| thing that all of these places had in common was the | | | | traditional earthy vine leaves that wouldn't offend even |
| Bosphorous view. When I went back to London | | | | the most conservative Turkish palette. |
| recently the Thames looked so small and muddy in | | | | Out of these two well conceived dishes the Turkish |
| comparison. The owners of Topaz are lucky that they | | | | wins out as the mango was a little too acid to be |
| have found a prime location near Beyolu and Nisantasi | | | | paired with such an expensive, subtle ingredient as foie |
| with such a fantastic view of the Bosphorous. The | | | | gras; if you are going to pick fruit, peaches are usually |
| serene dining room that goes with the view is a direct | | | | best in this case. For the main course I was presented |
| contrast to the busy street outside; waiters drift | | | | with the very heavy braised beef cheeks with spinach |
| around effortlessly, the lunch time crowd is winding | | | | and mushroom lasagna and olive sauce and the |
| down; everything as I enter the dining room reeks of | | | | thoroughly delicious and what I am told is the biggest |
| class and affluence without being garish or vulgar. The | | | | seller on the menu; grilled lamb loin with smoked |
| interior design is cool, modern and deeply functional. | | | | aubergine puree, minted onion relish, and smoked |
| The wood tones provide much appreciated warmth | | | | wheat pilaf. The problem with the beef is there is too |
| and reassurance as I settle down to two hefty | | | | much going on on the plate; all the flavor components |
| degustation menus. The owner was eager for me to | | | | are very good in their independent forms; when they |
| try both the Ottoman food and the Mediterranean | | | | come together the end result is too robust for a |
| food so he kindle suggested the Degustation menus | | | | modern fine dining menu. The grilled lamb on the other |
| that accurately show case the restaurant's food | | | | hand was exceptional; the marriage of beautifully grilled |
| concept. | | | | meat, smoky aubergine and a very light, refined onion |
| The soups which kick off the menu were not available; | | | | relish was made in heaven; I can't say enough good |
| something about the chef doing eleventh hour | | | | things about this dish- I felt like bursting into the kitchen |
| alterations before the degustation menu launch the | | | | and thanking the chef. |
| following day. We progressed to two rather excellent | | | | Both of the deserts were very good; the |
| starters; John Dory with beetroot puree and kiwi | | | | Crème Brulee with Kumquats was an |
| minted sauce from the Mediterranean and Stuffed | | | | interesting flavour combo that really works; I was keen |
| Tomato and Courgette flower cooked in Olive Oil from | | | | on the presentation as well. The Turkish Kadayifi with |
| the Ottoman. | | | | fresh clotted cream reminded this writer again why |
| The John Dory was clean tasting and dead fresh and | | | | when the world is against you there are always |
| combined beautifully with the vinegary beetroot and | | | | Turkish deserts to fall back on. Could Kadayifi be the |
| the sweet kiwi; when I get my hands on a good piece | | | | ultimate comfort food! |
| of John Dory I will invariably try to make this at home. | | | | Topaz is a special restaurant venue; the type you only |
| The Ottoman starter was an expertly crafted modern | | | | tend to see in Istanbul; with a breathtaking view of the |
| version of an old Aegean favorite; You can bet that | | | | Bosphorus, classy food and service and an extensive |
| next time a friend comes to Istanbul I will be taking | | | | wine list I am inclined to take anyone who will go with |
| them to Topaz on the strength of this dish alone; the | | | | me; friends, family and business associates alike. |
| rice inside the veg was perfectly cooked and the | | | | |